Poker: Intro to Pot Odds

Here's some useful background for anyone interested in poker. Frequently, when someone bets into you, and you are chasing a draw, you need to decide if you want to call or not. Below, we look at a couple ways to think about this.

Before we start, one important definition to get out of the way. The term equity/pot equity may be confusingly used to refer to a % of the pot or an actual $ amount. I will use %equity and $equity to differentiate between these. Both %equity and $equity look at what would happen on average if your hand was taken to show down without any further betting.

Take an example on the turn where the pot is $100. then the opponent bets $25 into pot. We need to decide if we call or not. 

Simple Pot Odds
We are doing the analysis below with the assumption that opponent is all-in (or that there is no more betting on the river). Intuitively, we might already think that it is cheap to call (we can call because the bet was small)- let's see what the math says:

Method 1 == pot odds required probability vs %equity

Pot Odds

• the opponent just bet 1/4 of the pot.
• the pot odds that you are getting is 25:125 == 1:5
• ie. pot odds are post money (inclusive of bet)
• from the pot odds, the required equity (probability of winning) in order to call is 1/(5+1) = 1/6 = 17%

%Equity (== Your Hand's Actual Probability to Win)

• looking at your hand vs your opponent's range, what is your probability of winning?
• let's say you put your opponent on a pair or better and you just have a straight draw.
• you only win if u hit your draw (8 outs = 18% chance of hitting)

Now compare pot odds probability (17%) to your hand's probability to win (18%) and since hand probability > the probability required from pot odds, this is callable. (maybe in practice you might demand say a 5% buffer before saying it's callable?)

Method 2 == EV calculation

folding = $0 

calling = 18% * 125 + 82% * (-25) = $2

so it's +EV to call. so call

Notice that here, you already take into acct the pot size (125) and the bet size (25).
Compare this to method 1 (the pot odds vs probability method) - the probability calculation doesn't take into acct the bet/pot ratio and that's why you need to compare pot odds to it in method 1.

I think in practice, method 1 is actually easier to work out over the board.

Implied Pot Odds

Now let's say we were not allin (there is more betting on the river). Let's say there's another $50 behind in effective stack size after the call. it's actually very easy to do implied pot odds
25:(125+50) == 1:7

that's it. required equity is 12.5%.
no chg with hand equity. so 12.5% vs 18% == much bigger reason to call/you have much more juice

Looking at the EV method, this is 18% * 175 + 82% * (-25) = $11

Benefits of Offering the Correct Odds

On a side note, i think it is interesting to look at what the EV # means. One way to think about the expected value of your profit at each situation is your $equity - money put in. At each point of decision when you have to decide between raise/bet/call/check/fold, you are seeking to maximize your incremental profit.

Let's go through the scenario above where you and your opponent each put in $50 before the turn, and have $25 each left. At the beginning of the turn, your $equity is $18, so your accumulated profit since the start of the hand is $18 - $50 = -$32.

1. if you could check it down (opponent hadn't bet) == you would get avg $18 from the pot of $100. Your incremental profit in this scenario is $0. Your accumulated profit since the start of the hand is still -$32.
2. Opponent bets and you fold. You $equity dropped to $0 here from $18, and you also didn't put any more money in. So your incremental profit for choosing this option is -$18. Your accumulated profit is now -$32 - $18 = -$50.
3. Opponent bets and you call $25 allin. You would get avg 18%*150 = $27 from the $150 pot. Your $equity increased from $18 to $27, but you also spent $25 calling. Your incremental profit = +$9 -$25 = -$16. Add this to your pre-calling accum profit of -$32 before to see that your post-calling accum profit is -$48.

Note that if you could, you would still much rather get option #1 than having to choose between #2 and #3. In option #3, your are choosing an action that has -EV (you lose another $16). However, choosing option #2 would have even worse consequences (-$18). All this is because your opponent had bet out at you when you had <50% in %equity. You either put in more chips being the underdog, or you fold- effectively losing your pot equity (the chance to draw out on the winner).

This has very interesting implications for when you are playing/betting optimally with the winning hand. 

By making an optimal bet, you win exactly your opponent's $equity since they should be apathetic to folding.

Quick example to show this again: lets say your opponent still has 20% chance (one in five) to draw out on you in a $100 implied pre-money pot. Right now, your accum profit is 80 - 50 = $30. Optimally, you would lay 1:4 odds post-money, or 1/3 of the pre-money pot == $33. If we show that when you make this $33 bet, you are increasing your accum profit from $30 to $50, then we have shown a working example of the statement made above. It is obvious if opponent folds. If opponent calls, then your expected payoff is 80% * 166 = 133 and your cost is 50 + 33 = 83. Accum profit = 133 - 83 = 50. 

Note that this optimal bet sizing is most important to get right when it comes to closer draws (ie. it matter less when you are 90/10 favorite already). I claim this because with a close draw (say 60/40), the opponent still has 40% equity in the pot, so betting correctly to win that 40% equity is likely to be hugely lucrative, vs winning the 10% equity is less so. This may be a reason for why we have more freedom to slow play with trips etc when we are already 90%+ favorites.